HOME AGAIN

FARMAN BIPLANE IN HONG KONG AIRPORT

ON BOARD THE AIRBUS A380-800

NEARLY A MONTH TOGETHER AND STILL TALKING

There was no rush to pack up as our flight wasn't leaving until 6.25pm Saturday evening. After clearing the room, we left our luggage in the Guest House office while taking a last look around Kowloon.

Our ride to the airport on the A21 bus took just under an hour. I photographed the model of an early Farman biplane hanging in the departure lounge. Thankfully the aircraft that would bring us home, a huge Airbus A380-800, was a little more modern. We were travelling with Emirates and the 14 hours of flying (roughly) was split into two by a three and a half hour connection in Dubai. Emirates provided good food and had a great media system which enabled us to watch several films, helping to pass away the time.

We landed at Gatwick around 7.30am Sunday. Rubi's taxi driver friend Ben was waiting for us as we emerged from customs and delivered us to Mum's house in Fareham, where Rubi had left her car, by 10.00am. Ben was paid partly in Chinese duty-free cigarettes.

Mum knocked us up a very welcome breakfast of beans and egg on toast, with a cuppa. We'd had a great adventure, but were now definitely home.

FERRIES, FILMS & FOOD

RUBI ON LAMMA ISLAND

MISBEHAVING DOGS IN BUDDHIST TEMPLE

VIEW FROM OUR HOTEL ROOM WINDOW

CONFUSING REFLECTIONS IN CINEMA

NAOMI, ANNE, STEVE, SOPHIE & RUBI AT RITZ-CARLTON

SPECIAL WELCOME AT THE RITZ-CARLTON

GOLD LEAF ON THE WILD STRAWBERRIES

RUBI'S MUM SURROUNDED BY HER CHILDREN: CHUCK, JOCKEY, JOSEPH & RUBI

We could hear the rain bouncing off the window on Wednesday morning, so didn't rush to get up. Rubi's brother Chuck works as a teacher and he was keen that we share lunch with him during his midday break, so we did that.

Afterwards, we caught the ferry over to Yung Shue Wan on Lamma Island. The sea was choppy and Rubi was concerned that she might be ill. Since she was leaning on my shoulder for most of the journey, I was pleased she wasn't.

The walk across the Island was OK since it was paved and well signposted. Views were limited by the haze, but the drizzle was light. We saw the beaches, the power station, several pavilions and the fish farms before reaching Sok Kwu Wan in good time to catch the return ferry.

Just as we were coming into Sok Kwu Wan we passed a Buddhist temple and saw that three dogs, probably a bitch and two puppies, were making quite a mess chewing a kneeler to pieces. When we peered through the open doorway they looked concerned, probably expecting to be evicted, but we decided that it was up to the locals to look after their own temple.

We ate at Pizza Hut that evening, Rubi recognising that I was a bit tired of the diet of Chinese food.

The following day we had intended to go walking in Sai Kung Country Park, which is reputed to be beautiful, but the weather was against us again and it wouldn't have been fun. Indeed, the authorities had announced a 'Yellow Alert' the previous day for potential flooding. We decided to go to the cinema in Mong Kok instead and watch 'Superman v Batman'. The cinema foyer was like a hall of mirrors, making it difficult for us to find the right screen. When we did, the film turned out to be the usual mix of weird characters, explosive special effects and an incomprehensible plot. In spite of that it kept us amused for a while.

On Friday we had an invitation from Sophie, Anne and Jockey's eldest daughter, to share lunch at the Ritz Carlton Hotel on the 102nd floor of the ICC Building, where she works. Naomi and Anne came too. The food was Italian and comprised a number of micro-dishes, finishing with wild strawberries with gold leaf on raspberry millefeuille. As usual, the Hong Kong fog prevented us from getting much of a view, but we were well behaved so they said we could come back another time.

Afterwards Sophie took us all for cocktails at W Hong Kong Hotel where her best friend works.

There was to be no let up in the eating today as we then took a taxi to Ma On Shan where we would join the rest of family for an evening meal at the Chrystal Harbour Restaurant in the Horizon Suite Hotel. This was to celebrate Rubi's Mum's 'special' 81st birthday.

For men, even numbered birthdays such as 50, 60, 70, 80, etc., are special. It should be noted that even numbers are 'yang' whereas, by contrast, odd numbers are 'yin'. Thus, to preserve the balance between yin and yang, the special birthdays for women are odd numbered ones such as 61, 71, 81, etc.

The food was plentiful and excellent, and Rubi's Mum clearly enjoyed herself, as did everyone. It was also a perfect finale to our Asian holiday, for tomorrow we would be packing our bags for an early evening flight home.

SOGGY HONG KONG

RUBI'S BROTHER HOGS THE LIMELIGHT

VIEW FROM HONG KONG ISLAND

DOWNPOUR ON HONG KONG ISLAND

TWO OF THE SIX DEVAS PRAISING 'THE BIG BUDDHA' (NOT RUBI)

STEPS UP TO BIG BUDDHA

BIG BUDDHA STATUTE

HOUSES ON STILTS AT TAI O

WOOD AND STEEL SHEET HOUSES AT TAI O

Although it was forecast to rain sometime around midday on Sunday, Rubi's eldest brother, Chuck, invited us to join him for a walk, starting early. We met him at 8.00am by Heng Fa Chuen Metro station on Hong Kong Island, and he led us on a hike of roughly 5 miles that started near Cape Collinson and took us past Big Wave Bay to the Shek O Headland. There was a fair bit of climbing involved, but the views were worth the effort. We also came across some wild pigs dozing alongside the path. Sure enough, the predicted deluge came in the late morning, but we were close enough to a cafe to avoid getting completely drenched. 

Chuck departed in the early afternoon, and since it looked like the rain had set in for the day, we decided to continue our stroll indoors - in the shopping mall at Po Lam. We later returned to Kowloon so that I could order some bifocal sunglasses. They would take a couple of days to make and would cost only half the UK price.

The rainy outlook continued into Tuesday so we had a bit of a lie-in before emerging from our tiny Guest House room. We took a stroll down the Ladies Market (similar to Temple Street Market, only bigger) and later caught the bus to Ma On Shan to eat with Rubi's Mum. We took the opportunity to do our laundry while we were there.

Wednesday's goal was to take the Metro to Tung Chung on Lantau Island, and from there make the 400 metre plus climb to the Ngong Ping plateau to see the giant bronze Tian Tan Buddha Statue. Reaching the statue involves climbing 268 steps. Sitting in the lotus position atop a three-tier plinth, the statue is 34 metres high and, even though hollow, weighs a massive 250 tons. Not surprisingly, it has gained the alternative name 'Big Buddha'.

The weather was drizzly and foggy again, so patience was required to get some reasonable photographs.

Also on the Ngong Ping plateau is the Po Lin Monastery, which houses three statues of the Buddha representing past, present and future. The interior is beautifully decorated, but we weren't permitted to take photographs. Some kind of ceremony was taking place so we were at least able to listen to the chanting.

Next, we caught a bus down to the little fishing village of Tai O, where many of the tiny houses stand on stilts on the mud-flats. Built of wood and clad in sheet steel, the construction method is unusual, but presumably keeps the weight down. We walked the narrow streets and visited a Buddhist Temple (closed) and a place where they teach the martial arts.

By the time we got back to Kowloon it was dark, but many shops remain open late so I was able to collect my newly made sunglasses. However, unless the weather perks up, it looks like they won't be needed until we get back to the UK.

HANGING OUT IN HONG KONG

BULLET TRAIN IN GUANGZHOU

WATERFALL IN KOWLOON PARK

JUNK IN VICTORIA HARBOUR

A FOGGY VIEW OF FROM SKY TERRACE 428

ANNE, NAOMI & RUBI IN MONG KOK

CHEUNG CHAU HARBOUR

FOOD AGAIN - CHEUNG CHAU

EVENING IN HONG KONG FROM FERRY

Wednesday 6th, and our taxi driver picked us up at 6.30am to take us to Guilin North Railway Station where we would be catching the bullet train to Guangzhou. The highest speed we noted during our 2-hour rail journey was 248 km/hr, shown on a display panel at the end of our carriage. The train was really smooth and as we watched the countryside pass us by through the window, it didn't seem that fast.

We arrived at Guangzhou South Railway Station on time, but our onward journey to Hong Kong departed from Guangzhou East, which involved roughly and hour on the Metro. We eventually arrived to a warm, humid Kowloon at about 5.00pm.

Our room in Tai An Guest House was on the 14th floor of the Alhambra Building in Kowloon. It was basic, and there wouldn't have been room to swing a mouse, let alone cat. However, it was as good as we could expect given that we weren't paying much.

In the evening Rubi went off for a reunion with some of her primary school friends and teachers. I spent a couple of hours exploring the Temple Street night market. With our Guest House in the heart of Kowloon there was plenty going on.

On Thursday we took a walk along Nathan Road, the main thoroughfare through Kowloon, down to Victoria Harbour. Then, crossing the water to Hong Kong Island on the ferry, we took a ride on the rickety Peak Tram, a funicular that hauled us up the steep slope to Sky Terrace 428, the number referring to the altitude of this viewpoint in metres. Unfortunately, the fog prevented us from getting the clear view shown in the brochures, but the experience was fun.

We returned to Mong Kok on the Metro to meet Naomi, Rubi's daughter who had arrived in Hong Kong from the UK that day, and Rubi's sister-in-law Anne. We shared a Korean meal in a nearby restaurant and then Naomi came back to our tiny Guest House room for the night. Our bedtime preparations were possible provided only one of us moved at a time!

In the morning we headed to the Hong Kong Immigration Office so that Naomi could update her ID card. Having sorted that, we continued on the Metro to Ma On Shan to see Rubi's mother. She lives in a small flat on the 35th floor of a high-rise residential development in Ma On Shan. Nearby is a huge shopping and commercial complex called Sunshine City. We walked there to eat in a huge and very smart restaurant called Ho Yin (which means 'Royal Banquet').

Later, Rubi, Naomi and I walked the steep path leading to the Ma On Shan mountain, after which the residential area is named. There were only a few hours of daylight left so we couldn't walk for long, but we still managed to climb up to about 500m before turning back. Unfortunately the views were somewhat limited because the hill is largely tree covered.

Although there was a shower of rain on the way down, temperatures were still in the high 20's so we all needed a shower when we got back to Rubi's Mum's flat.

Saturday's itinerary involved a family visit to the Buddhist cemetery where Rubi's Dad's ashes are kept. All three of Rubi's brother's were present along with her Mum and niece. A great many other people were milling around paying respects to their own departed relatives. There was a ritual burning of a bag of 'gifts' (actually paper clothes, money, food, shoes, etc.) for the use of Rubi's Dad in the afterlife. 

The family lunch followed, after which Rubi's second brother Jockey, his wife Anne, their daughter Jean plus Naomi, Rubi and I all took the Metro to the ferry port at Central on Hong Kong Island to cross over to the tiny island of Cheung Chau, just a short distance to the south west. Rubi and I took a walk around the shore-line, passing through the Cheung Po Tsai Cave, which a Hong Kong pirate once used to hide the spoils of his trade, before climbing to the view point that would have given us a great view of the surroundings had it not been so foggy.

We all reassembled at the harbourside to enjoy the inevitable seafood meal before catching the ferry back to Central. Another brief ferry crossing to Kowloon followed by a short bus ride brought us back to our digs again, tired and stuffed with food.

GUILIN & THE RIVER LI

OUTSIDE OUR HOTEL IN GUILIN

FROM VIEWPOINT IN TUNNEL HILL PARK

THE STUNNING SILVER AND GOLD PAGODAS AT FIR LAKE, GUILIN

THEY WILL EAT ANYTHING HERE

DOWN THE RIVER LI ON A BAMBOO RAFT

RIVER LI SCENE

DEMONSTRATION OF CALLIGRAPHY

ILLUMINATED CAVES IN TUNNEL HILL PARK

RUBI'S FAVOURITE PASTIME

As the taxi weaved its way through the Xi'an city traffic I was amused, but not surprised, to see a road sweeper dodging the cars as he cleaned litter off the 4-lane carriageway. Once out of the city and onto the Airport Expressway, the taxi driver floored the throttle. We did 90 mph passing slower cars on both sides. Our seat-belt buckles were trapped under the seats, so we just hoped that there would be no sudden stops. We reached Xi'an Airport in just 30 minutes - somewhat quicker than the 70 minutes advised.

We checked in and dropped off the hold luggage only to have it handed back by security instructing us to remove any batteries (for my shaver, mobile phone charger and our torches). We put the batteries in our pockets for the flight, which was otherwise uneventful.

A shuttle took us from Guilin Airport to the city centre. We were interested in taking a boat trip along the River Li, and alighted near a hotel where they sold tours. However, after listening to the sales talk, we met a taxi driver outside the hotel who said she could show us where to get boat tickets at half the price. We decided to trust her and let her take us to a sales office just around the corner. Sure enough, the tours were much cheaper so we booked one for the following day.

The taxi then drove us to the excellent Shui Yue Ge Boutique Hotel where we would be staying, and later came back to take us to Tunnel Hill Park. Here we explored caves and climbed up to a viewpoint which overlooked Guilin city. Two hours later our taxi driver was back, this time to take us to the restaurants used by the locals for supper.

The following morning we were picked up by a coach that would take us to the River Li boats. We visited a place selling jade jewellery on the way, but resisted the hard sell. The boats were open bamboo rafts (except the bamboo was really plastic) with seating for four passengers. Although the boats had outboard engines, we spent much of the time peacefully drifting with the current as the river meandered between the steep, tree covered mountains. The ride was really enjoyable and the scenery stunning.

That ride over, we changed to more conventional river boats for some further exploration before re-boarding the coach to be driven to Yangshou, further south. There we stopped at a Buddhist temple and an exhibition of Chinese poetry and calligraphy, with demonstrations of the latter.

After a day in the countryside, Guilin's illuminated street signs made our return to the city feel like we were entering Las Vegas. We didn't get back to the hotel until after 8.00pm, but this was not too late to seek out a hot-pot supper.

On Tuesday we took a taxi ride back to Tunnel Hill Park. During Sunday's visit we didn't have sufficient time to take the guided tour of the Tunnel Hill Cave itself. This turned out to be extensive and contain many features such as stalagmites, stalactites, huge vaulted caverns and underground lakes, all illuminated with coloured lighting. After exiting, we crossed a bridge so that we could climb to the top of Pagoda Hill. As there had been some light rain whilst we were in the cave, care was needed on the slippery steps. The Pagoda constructed on the summit did not actually have an entrance and was there for appearance only. 

We spent the rest of the day walking to the west side of Guilin, passing over Jiefang Bridge, around the wall of the Castle of Ming and back to our hotel via the pedestrianised market area. We enjoyed a coffee in the inevitable Irish Pub.

In the evening, our last in China, we bought a few gifts for friends and family with our remaining money. Tomorrow we would be in Hong Kong.

XI'AN & THE TERRACOTTA ARMY

OUR 'SOFT SLEEPER' ON TRAIN TO XI'AN

ANCIENT CITY YOUTH HOSTEL, XI'AN

RUBI SEEMS TO HAVE FOUND ANOTHER MAN

THE BELL TOWER IN THE CENTRE OF XI'AN

THE TERRACOTTA ARMY

A GENERAL

STREET FOOD - CUTTLEFISH AND CRABS

AT THE BIG WILD GOOSE PAGODA

Catching a train to Xi'an from Beijing West Railway Station was like taking a flight - ticket and passport checks before passing through security, then into a waiting lounge milling with people waiting for the illuminated sign to tell us to board.

We had booked a 'soft-sleeper' which comprised four bunk-beds to a cabin, so we shared with two others. It was late in the evening, so after a noodle supper we got straight to sleep. We awoke the following morning shortly before the train pulled into Xi'an. We would be staying in the Ancient City Youth Hostel, and as we exited the Railway Station we were met by one of the staff from the hostel and driven there. Our room was lovely and much larger than the one in Beijing.

With bags dropped off, we went out to explore the walled city of Xi'an, initially heading south towards the famous Bell Tower, the city's central point, which afforded us great views over the surrounding area. We also listened to some musicians there rehearsing for a concert.

Then, after some supermarket shopping for food, we visited the Drum Tower. In ancient times the Bell Tower would signal the dawn and the Drum Tower the dusk.

Heading back to the hostel we passed through the Muslim Quarter which comprised a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with small shops selling clothes, trinkets, souvenirs, spices and street food, typical of the souks seen in Morocco and Egypt.

We had pre-booked a trip to see the Terracotta Army on the following day. This time a minivan came to pick us up at the appointed time and took us to a larger coach where we joined up other holidaymakers to form a 15-strong multi-national group. Led by tour guide Michael, we were driven through the busy streets of Xi'an, out of the city and in an easterly direction.

We stopped at a factory where they made replica terracotta warriors from miniature to full-size. It was interesting to hear about the manufacturing process, and some of our group were persuaded to buy.

Less than an hour later we arrived at Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum to see the real thing. We knew, more-or-less, what to expect, but the size of the site surprised us, the necropolis as a whole covering an area with a diameter of 6.3km. The 8,000 plus soldiers of the Terracotta Army were discovered in 3 pits some 1.5km to the east of the main tomb mound, and served as a garrison for the Emperor Qin's tomb, protecting him in the afterlife. We learned how to identify the ranks of the solders, from generals to infantrymen, and how the army as a whole was organised.

We visited the tomb mound itself, which is a pyramidal hill 76 metres high. This is known to contain a huge underground palace, but the site has yet to be excavated. Indeed, the whole area is work in progress for archaeologists.

All too soon we were back in Xi'an, pleased that this tour had gone according to plan for a change.

Our final full-day in Xi'an started with domestic duties, namely washing our clothes. We then took a Metro journey outside of the walls to visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Those Buddhist monks certainly know how to make money as it was expensive to go inside. However, it was warm and sunny again, so we were happy to just view it from the outside and enjoy the display of fountains dancing to music in the surrounding park.

We took a bus back to the city wall's South Gate, then weaved our way on foot through streets on the east side of the city, passing stalls selling Chinese calligraphy and painting materials, until we reached our hostel.

The evening comprised a bit of fun for all hostel inmates - making Chinese dumplings, which were shared out after cooking, and watching The Monkey King on a large projection screen. Rubi loved the film.

Our taxi picked us up at 7.30am the following morning to take us to the airport for the next part of our trip.

JINSHANLING & THE FORBIDDEN CITY

THE GREAT WALL AT JINSHANLING

LOOKING WEST ALONG THE GREAT WALL AT JINSHANLING

'HALL OF SUPREME HARMONY' INSIDE THE FORBIDDEN CITY

MALE LION GUARDING ENTRANCE

TEMPLE OF HEAVEN IN BACKGROUND

THE 'TOWER OF FRAGRANCE OF BUDDHA' AT THE SUMMER PALACE

OUR GUIDE SHUSHAN WITH RUBI

SUZHOU STREET

Monday started well enough. As expected, we were picked up by the young Chinese guide at 6.00am for our organised trip to the Great Wall at Jinshanling

A lot of people were joining this tour so there was quite a bit of driving around Beijing in heavy traffic to pick them up. However, there was some fuss when one participant apparently lost their smartphone, and I was sure that we spent half and hour driving in a loop around the same bit of road twice.

Eventually we headed out to the city and after a couple of hours arrived at a large car park for the Great Wall where everyone alighted. It turned out that this was the Simatai section of the Great Wall where only some passengers from our coach, and another one which the guide was apparently responsible for, were meant to be dropped off. The rest of us were ushered back onto the coach (well, rudely shouted at really) where we proceeded to wait for 40 minutes while the guide got tickets for the Simatai group.

The residue of the passengers from the other coach then joined us for a further drive to the Jinshanling section of the wall. At this point the young guide, who went by the western name Diana, burst into tears and started loudly apologising and explaining that the tour company treated her like a horse. Had we been in Japan, her shrill wailing would have made us wonder if she was just about to commit ritual suicide, harakiri style. Fortunately no blood was spilt here - just endless apologies until we were weary of hearing them.

We had chosen Jinshanling because it is reputed to be the most beautiful section of the wall, combining original and renovated parts in a wonderful hill setting, and with fewer crowds because it is further out from Beijing. On that score we were not disappointed, but the advertised two and a half hour journey there had morphed into six hours.

We had a lovely three hour hike visiting 15 watchtowers along the wall. Many parts were challengingly steep, and it was clear that the soldiers who would have served here must have been very fit. Finally we reached the Five Window tower, the highest watchtower on this section, before heading back down to the coach.

We were then driven a short way to a restaurant for a very good Chinese-style late lunch before making our way back to Beijing. The fun started again on the outskirts of Beijing where Diana tried to persuade passengers that because the traffic was so heavy it was better for folk to get off here and use the Metro to get back to their hotels. Many did get off but we and several others stuck to our guns and insisted that the company fulfil their obligation. Grudgingly, and after a vehicle change, we ended up at Qainmen, which was good enough.

On spite of the appalling tour management we had enjoyed walking on a lovely part of the wall. To finish the evening off we found an excellent restaurant recommended by the girl in the Laoshe Tea House and enjoyed dumplings and chillied pigs liver with vegetables.

We had a tour booked to see the Forbidden City the next day. Of course, lightning does not strike twice in the same place, so as we waited for our coach pick-up, we knew we would have a well-organised, enjoyable and care-free day. Wrong!

No coach arrived, and when we phoned the tour office we were told that they had made a mistake there was no tour planned today. However, they would arrange for a taxi with a personal guide would come and pick us up in half an hour and give us a personal tour. Eventually, after 45 minutes, a chain smoking Mongolian approached us, but there was no taxi. This he now had to call, which was another half hour wait. We were then driven to a place which was clearly not on the way to the Forbidden City where he got out, saying he had to deal with something, and instructed the taxi driver to drop us yet somewhere else. The taxi driver did not seem to have a clue where we should be next, and simply ejected us amongst a load of tour busses near to the Forbidden City. At this point, having already wasted almost three hours, we gave up and phoned the booking office to tell them that we would be doing our own thing

Fortunately there was practically no wait to get tickets for the Forbidden City (although we had to show our passports to get them) and entry was quick (although we were required to put our bags through the x-ray scanners again).

The enclosed city, which was the Imperial Palace of Emperors from the Ming to the end of Qing dynasty (1420-1912), and could only be entered with their permission, was both huge and impressive. The buildings were all designed according to a uniform traditional style and had names like 'Hall of Martial Valour' and 'Hall of Supreme Harmony'. There was also the lovely 'Garden of Benevolent Tranquility' and exhibitions of art, treasure and artefacts. We took lots of pictures.

On exiting by the North 'Gate of Divine Prowess' we caught a bus which took us to the Temple of Heaven in Tiantan Park. We didn't go in as just seeing the outside of this impressive circular temple with its three-tiered roof was enough.

Buy the time we got back to our hotel we were exhausted again, but pleased that we had rescued the day from the incompetence of the bus tour company.

Wednesday 30th, our final day in Beijing, started with a visit to the Beijing Tourist Office where we had paid for the guided tour we were supposed to have had the previous day. We were greeted by Joy, who was expecting us and spoke good English. Joy was full of apologies and handed over her phone to Rubi to explain the problem to the chain-smoking Mongolian tour guide. Rubi ranted down the phone at him in double-speed Chinese (which sounded terrifying) while I calmly explained to Joy that when you cock things up, the honourable thing to do is give the money back. The two-pronged attack worked and we were reimbursed, but we both had the feeling that the money might have come out of Joy's pocket for now. We parted with a handshake and a hug.

Next, we took a journey on the Metro to the outskirts of Beijing to visit the Summer Palace, the summer retreat of the Qing Emperors of China and in particular the Empress Dowager Cixi.

A young tour guide named Shushan approached us near the entrance and offered to guide us through the grounds. She was so charming and her price was reasonable so we accepted. We were pleased we had because she explained so much as we walked through the grounds of the Palace, which included within its boundaries the huge man-made Lake Kunming and a mountain built from the spoil from the lake.

The Palace comprised many buildings for different purposes and an impressive Buddhist temple built on the mountainside. It was, without doubt, more impressive than the Forbidden City and the most amazingly beautiful place we had visited so far.

After returning to our hotel to pick up our bags, we stocked up with food and headed to Beijing West Railway Station. We were booked on the overnight sleeper to Xi'an.