Monday, 4 April 2016

XI'AN & THE TERRACOTTA ARMY

OUR 'SOFT SLEEPER' ON TRAIN TO XI'AN
ANCIENT CITY YOUTH HOSTEL, XI'AN
RUBI SEEMS TO HAVE FOUND ANOTHER MAN
THE BELL TOWER IN THE CENTRE OF XI'AN
THE TERRACOTTA ARMY
A GENERAL
STREET FOOD - CUTTLEFISH AND CRABS
AT THE BIG WILD GOOSE PAGODA
Catching a train to Xi'an from Beijing West Railway Station was like taking a flight - ticket and passport checks before passing through security, then into a waiting lounge milling with people waiting for the illuminated sign to tell us to board.

We had booked a 'soft-sleeper' which comprised four bunk-beds to a cabin, so we shared with two others. It was late in the evening, so after a noodle supper we got straight to sleep. We awoke the following morning shortly before the train pulled into Xi'an. We would be staying in the Ancient City Youth Hostel, and as we exited the Railway Station we were met by one of the staff from the hostel and driven there. Our room was lovely and much larger than the one in Beijing.

With bags dropped off, we went out to explore the walled city of Xi'an, initially heading south towards the famous Bell Tower, the city's central point, which afforded us great views over the surrounding area. We also listened to some musicians there rehearsing for a concert.

Then, after some supermarket shopping for food, we visited the Drum Tower. In ancient times the Bell Tower would signal the dawn and the Drum Tower the dusk.

Heading back to the hostel we passed through the Muslim Quarter which comprised a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with small shops selling clothes, trinkets, souvenirs, spices and street food, typical of the souks seen in Morocco and Egypt.

We had pre-booked a trip to see the Terracotta Army on the following day. This time a minivan came to pick us up at the appointed time and took us to a larger coach where we joined up other holidaymakers to form a 15-strong multi-national group. Led by tour guide Michael, we were driven through the busy streets of Xi'an, out of the city and in an easterly direction.

We stopped at a factory where they made replica terracotta warriors from miniature to full-size. It was interesting to hear about the manufacturing process, and some of our group were persuaded to buy.

Less than an hour later we arrived at Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum to see the real thing. We knew, more-or-less, what to expect, but the size of the site surprised us, the necropolis as a whole covering an area with a diameter of 6.3km. The 8,000 plus soldiers of the Terracotta Army were discovered in 3 pits some 1.5km to the east of the main tomb mound, and served as a garrison for the Emperor Qin's tomb, protecting him in the afterlife. We learned how to identify the ranks of the solders, from generals to infantrymen, and how the army as a whole was organised.

We visited the tomb mound itself, which is a pyramidal hill 76 metres high. This is known to contain a huge underground palace, but the site has yet to be excavated. Indeed, the whole area is work in progress for archaeologists.

All too soon we were back in Xi'an, pleased that this tour had gone according to plan for a change.

Our final full-day in Xi'an started with domestic duties, namely washing our clothes. We then took a Metro journey outside of the walls to visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Those Buddhist monks certainly know how to make money as it was expensive to go inside. However, it was warm and sunny again, so we were happy to just view it from the outside and enjoy the display of fountains dancing to music in the surrounding park.

We took a bus back to the city wall's South Gate, then weaved our way on foot through streets on the east side of the city, passing stalls selling Chinese calligraphy and painting materials, until we reached our hostel.

The evening comprised a bit of fun for all hostel inmates - making Chinese dumplings, which were shared out after cooking, and watching The Monkey King on a large projection screen. Rubi loved the film.

Our taxi picked us up at 7.30am the following morning to take us to the airport for the next part of our trip.