THE CUILLIN HILLS

EILEAN DONAN CASTLE

EILEAN DONAN CASTLE & BRIDGE

FAIRY POOLS

SO THIS MUST BE A FAIRY?

LOOKING OUT FROM WATERPIPE GULLY

BEAUTIFUL CORRIE IN CUILLINS

TOO COLD TO SWIM IN

PATH ON THE CUILLIN RIDGE

NICE ARM CHAIR

'THE OLD INN' IN CARBOST

VIEWS OVER LOCH DUNVEGAN

Wednesday 3rd of August, and after a brief walk down to Gairlochy beach we continued south. We were heading for the Isle of Skye, but stopped off at the excellent Beinn Eighe Visitor Centre before turning off follow the A896 Wester Ross Coastal Trail, stopping for a tasty bowl of soup in the village of Torridon.

Next stop was Eilean Donan castle, one of Scotland's most photographed places. It is open to the public as a museum but also serves as a venue for wedding ceremonies. We enjoyed exploring this charming Scottish icon and learning about its history. It was also an ideal indoor activity given that it was pouring with rain much of the day.

Afterwards, we drove to Kyle of Lochalsh and crossed the Skye Bridge onto the island, continuing initially to Shigachan where we cooked supper for ourselves in the car. We subsequently found ourselves a place for the night in a car park along Glen Brittle, which runs north to south on the west side of the Cuillin Hills.

It took us a while to get going the following morning, but we eventually made our way to the start point of a path that runs alongside a stream called the Allt Coir' a' Mhadaidh up to the Fairy Pools. These are 'bowls' scooped out by waterfalls along the course of the stream, in which one can take a dip. The excellent weather had brought out many other people, a few of whom entered the water, but most just turned back after seeing the Pools. Following a tributary of the Allt Coir' a' Mhadaidh, we continued walking to where the Coire na Creiche steepened sharply up to the Cuillin ridge, where we found another pool. Rubi bravely had a paddle, but the freezing cold water ensured it was brief.

Rather than go back the way we came, we instead contoured around Sgurr an Fheadain so that we could get a closer look at Waterpipe Gully, which turned out to be amazing at close range - a deep fissure that runs right up to the top of the 688m high peak. We had a few slips and slides as we crossed a difficult scree slope to get there, but no injuries.

Further on, we reached the Allt Coir' a' Mhadaidh again where it exited at the base of Coire a' Mhadaidh and we followed it down over moorland until we got back to the Fairy Pools path. It was necessary to cross running water several times.

By the time we got back to the car we had been out for over 5 hours, but had really enjoyed our first foray into the huge and intimidating Cuillin Hills.

The sun was still shining so we drove down to the southern end of Glen Brittle and made supper whilst enjoying the views over Loch Brittle. There was a campsite nearby where we were able to replenish our water and buy some food, but to save money we returned to our car park for the night.

We were back at the campsite in the morning since it was the starting point for walks to the southern end of the Cuillin Hills. The weather was initially poor but gradually improved as we ate our breakfast. By walking through the campsite we were able to access a path which took us directly into a valley between Sgurr Dearg and Sgurr MhicChoinnich. The steady incline of the path steepened after a while and we scrambled over a rocky barrier. Beyond was a beautiful corrie enclosing a loch of blue water, like a land that time forgot.

The walls of the corrie were mainly scree slopes. Rubi remained by the loch with my rucksack and walking poles while I climbed up the scree to reach the summit ridge. This was a slow and tricky process as climbing loose scree inevitably causes rocks to be kicked down. It is wise to ensure that there is neither anyone above you nor below you.

Eventually I reached the ridge. It had been in clear view as I climbed, but was now shrouded in mist. I walked north along the ridge and had intended to reach a well-known rock called the Inaccessible Pinacle. However, the mist made routefinding tricky. Then it started to rain, which made the rocks slippery too. The atmosphere was really spooky and threatening. It was obviously wise to turn round and go back. Besides, Rubi had been waiting below long enough by now. I sent her an email and a text to let her know I was returning, but reception was poor so she got neither message.

Having memorised significant points along my route on the way out, I worked my way carefully back to the top of the scree slope and then skied down through the mist. Rubi had been patiently worrying and waiting for me near the now mist covered loch.

We returned to the campsite, chatting to a group of six from Washington State, USA, as we walked down. We then drove to Carbost at the northern end of Glen Brittle, picking up an Irish hitch-hiker along the way. We had passed each other at the top of the scree slope and he had recognised me.

There is a well-known pub and bunkhouse in Carbost, popular with outdoors people, called 'The Old Inn'. For £2 each they let us use their showers before we enjoyed a drink at the bar. Rubi had a whisky. The pub was heaving with dirty, sweaty cyclists and rugged bearded climbers.

After a shared bowl of skin-on chips, we left to find somewhere to stay near Dunvegan. We struck lucky, as usual, and found an ideal place for the night where we could watch the sunset over Colbost and Loch Dunvegan.

P.S. Did I tell you about the midges? Most people have heard about the agressive Scottish midges, but it is difficult to truly appreciate just how vicious they are until one has experienced being attacked by a swarm of them. For such a tiny insect, it is incredible how much their bites hurt, and we are both covered in little swellings as evidence. Rubi's face and neck seems to have been most attractive to them. They are most active morning and evening, e.g. when we have to leave the car to wash pans, clean teeth, etc. For prolonged exposure we have head nets, but even when returning to the apparent refuge of the car they follow you in. A quick spray of DEET inside the car seems to dispatch the interlopers, but we still wake up each morning with a few more bumps. Perhaps next time we will come to Scotland in the Winter when all we would have to contend with is freezing temperatures and snow.