LAST THINGS & HOME

OUR SIN ROOM BALCONY

TAXI TO MARRAKESH

NEAR CAFE DES EPICES

AT CAFE DES EPICES

SOMEONE WANTS OUR FOOD

HORSE CARRIAGE IN THE FNA

BYEEEEEE MARRAKESH

We returned from our Toubkal trek to enjoy our last night at Douar Samra. Rashida had arranged for a Grand Taxi to take us back to Marrakech in the morning. We settled our drinks bill and packed our cases, handing them over for Jules to carry up to the road. Saying goodby to the staff was like saying farewell to friends. Even the owner, Jacqueline, came out to give us a hug.

Our driver dropped us off close to the Grand Taxi rank in Marrakesh at around 1.00pm. It had been hot in Tamatert, but it was even hotter at the lower altitude. We were staying in Riad Casa Sophia again for our last night in Morocco so we left our cases with Medhi, as before, freeing us to take a further walk around the souks during the afternoon. Rubi had hoped to buy a leather bag for herself and some gifts for friends, and I wanted to get a tagine dish, but we couldn't find what was wanted at the right price. Being continually hassled by stall owners became tiring after a while so we walked to the south of the Medina where it was a bit less oppressive.

During the evening we found an excellent restaurant close to Casa Sophia where we enjoyed such good tagines that we returned the next day to take a long relaxing lunch there. We spent several hours 'people watching' before returning to Casa Sophia mid-afternoon for the last time.

We were concerned that the taxi company we had engaged for airport transfers would be as unreliable on the return trip as they had been when we arrived. Medhi phoned them for us to say that we were ready anytime. They were on time, but not at our accomodation. We ended up having to walk half a mile, dragging our cases again in the swieltering heat, to meet the taxi driver near Koutoubia Mosque.

The drive to the airport was short. Just as well as the taxi driver was holding his phone to his ear with his left hand and changing gear with his right. Occasionally he touched the steering wheel. At the airport drop-off point I had the feeling that he was hoping for a tip.

TOUBKAL (ALMOST)

BIRTHDAY GIRL

TAMATERT VALLEY WALK

SETTING OUT TOWARDS TOUBKAL

SIDI CHAMHAROUCH

MOUNTAIN REFUGES

SNOW ON THE WAY TO TOUBKAL

ROCKY ROAD

FRIENDLY BABY GOAT

Saturday, and it was Rubi's birthday. We had intended to walk to the Refuge at the base of Toubkal today, but thunderstorms were predicted during the afternoon so we decided to take a shorter walk further up the Tamatert Valley instead.

We saw several cyclists puffing and panting their way along the steep road that zigzagged its way up the valley. However, by following a more direct off-road walking route that cut across the zigzags we were able to climb faster than they were. At last we reached a col called Tizi n'Tamatert where there was a hut selling cold drinks. We did walk a little further with the intention of reaching Adrar Tamalaroute, the peak that overlooks Tamatert from the north, but the sound of thunder sent us scurrying back to the hut for a cold drink – reaching it just before the first rain shower started. The moment it cleared we continued our way down, managing to reach Douar Samra before the second and more prolonged rain shower commenced.

The following day's weather was predicted to be excellent so we spent our evening packing our rucksacks in readiness for our 'expedition' to Jebel Toubkal. At 4,167m, Jebel Toubkal is the highest mountain in Morocco. Our plan was to spend a day walking to the French Alpine Club Refuge at the foot of the mountain, where we would spend the night, and then consider whether to climb it early the following morning.

We set off from Samra at about 10.00 am. The skies were cloudless and it was very warm. Our walk took us through Aremd and we eventually reached the waterfalls at Sidi Chamharouch where we took refreshments. Continuing on, the scenery became progressively more rugged and spectacular as we became surrounded by the high mountains, and in spite of the blazing sun there was snow on them.

Indeed, as we continued our climb it became cooler, which helped, but on the other had the air was becoming a little thinner, which didn't. We were pleased to see the Refuge come into view, although I had slight headache by then, probably because of dehydration and the altitude.

We booked into the Refuge. The dormitory comprised just a lot mattresses pushed together on two levels - kind of a huge communal bunk bed. Fortunately the Refuge was far from full so we were able to find a couple of mattresses together by a window in the corner. We didn't order supper from the Refuge because we had brought our own food, but when we saw what the other guests were served up we regretted that decision.

In order to climb Toubkal and then get back to Samra we would have to get up really early and start climbing while it was still dark. I decided to have a go while Rubi chose to stay at the Refuge and wait for me. Thus, I packed my rucksacks with only the most essential equipment for the climb and set the alarm for 3.00 am.

At the appointed time I crept out of the dormitory, ate breakfast and set off by torchlight. The path was quite difficult to follow in the dark, but there were others doing the same thing and I could see their head torches ahead of me. I crossed a steam to meet with the first major obstacle which was a steep scree slope. This seemed to take ages to climb. Indeed, it took so long that as the sun began to rise and in the morning light I could see that there was a better route I could have taken. Joining it involved getting around a large patch of hardened snow.

I continued climbing until I got to a saddle which overlooked the Refuge and realised that two hours had gone already. I was feeling a little nauseous, had a mild headache and the climb had already exhausted me. The combination of thin air at altitude plus an iffy tummy had undermined my fitness and I concluded that continuing would be unwise. Even if I had reached the summit, I would have taken so long that Rubi and I would have been unable to manage the walk back to Samra in time for supper.

Thus, at about 6.30 am I started to make my way down again by the easier route I has spotted on the way up. Even so, it was 8.30 am before I got back to the Refuge. Rubi was up and about chatting to another walker named Joseph, and I had a short doze to replenish my strength in preparation for the walk back.

Thus, at 10.00 am we started our long trek back down the valley towards Imlil. We stopped at Sidi Chamharouch for lunch to share a tagine before continuing onto Aremd. My headache had almost gone by then. The last bit of the walk involved an uphill climb on the road between Imlil and Tamatert. By the time we reached Samra we were totally worn out and parched. Rashida fetched us a couple of cold Coca Colas which we gratefully guzzled on the shaded balcony of our room.

Whilst I may not have reached the summit of Jebel Toubkal, the pair of us were satisfied that we had enjoyed a spectacular, if exhausting, adventure in the Atlas Mountains. This would be our last night in Tamatert before returning to Marrakech.

DOUAR SAMRA

TAXI ARRIVAL IN TAMATERT

JULES CARRIES THE BAGS DOWN

DOUAR SAMRA

THE SIN ROOM

LOCAL ART

NEVER SAW IT OPEN THOUGH

CLIMBING OUT OF IMLIL

TRUCK IN NEED OF ASSISTANCE

SHELTER FROM THE RAIN

SUPPER AT SAMRA

I managed to keep the destination for Rubi's birthday treat a secret for a while, but it was necessary to tell her when it came to getting the relevant immunisations. Morroco is certainly not rife with infectious diseases, but it is advisable to have jabs for Hepatitis A and Typhoid, and make sure your Tetanus is up to date.

It took us about 20 minutes to walk from Casa Sophia to the Grand Taxi rank, dragging our suitcases behind us. I had expected a local to offer assistance (for a price, of course) but nobody did. Perhaps it looked too much like hard work.

We explained to one of the taxi drivers that we needed a ride to our guest house, Douar Samra, in Tamatert. He didn't know where Tamatert was so I showed him the map. He said he could drop us in nearby Imlil, but from there to the guest house was just a rough track and we would need a horse to take us. Having done our research we insisted that the road was sufficiently good for him to take us all the way by car. After consulting his colleagues he finally agreed. Next was the question of price. After a little haggling we settled on what we knew to be the reasonable price of 400 Dirham - about £32.

The ride out of Marrakech was initially along wide, straight and well-maintained roads but as we started climbing the foothills of the Atlas Mountains the roads became narrow, snake-like and pot-holed. We enjoyed the magnificent views out the windows when we were not otherwise preoccupied with the precipitous drops that edged the road.

Rubi helped the driver to navigate the last couple of kilometers to Tamatert. An elderly local gentleman was waiting by the side of the road where we eventually stopped. On establishing who we were he disappeared momentarily before returning with a mule called Jules who would carry our cases for us. We thanked and tipped the taxi driver who seemed pleased that he had achieved what we had asked of him and insisted on a photo shoot before departing. We then followed Jules down the steep slope to the entrance to Douar Samra where we were greeted by the staff - Muhammad, Rashida and Omar - before being ushered to the lounge and given mint tea.

Douar Samra is owned by a Swiss lady called Jacqueline Brandt who built the house on the site of a previous ruin using local labour. The house is constructed in traditional Berber style with mud walls and bamboo ceilings. Furnishings are also traditional Berber with colourful rugs and seating cushions on the floor, and tables of a height that would suit people sitting cross legged.

Our room was called the Sin Room (don't ask me why) and it was furnished in a similar fashion to the rest of the house. The room had two balconies and the en-suite shower and toilet were in separate alcoves with blankets draped across the entrances to serve the needs of privacy. All lighting was provided by candles since there was no electricity. We quickly settled in and, having been advised when supper would we served, took a walk to explore the immediate area.

Supper was a communal affair with a family group from Salisbury, Wiltshire, and a Belgian/German couple. The food included beetroot, potato gratin and beef kofta.

The following morning we walked downhill to take a look around Imlil, and then we located the path that would take us south to Toubkal, the highest mountain in Morocco. We followed the path for about 4 kilometres and might have gone further had we not been deterred by the sound of thunder. We turned around and got as far as the village of Aremd before the rain turned from light to heavy. We sheltered for a while in what was probably a mule's stable before a young girl came out and ushered us into her home. We were sat in the family room and given blankets for warmth while her mother prepared mint tea for us.

When the rain stopped we thanked our hosts and left a small amount of money and some sweets for the children before continuing on our way. We finally got back to Douar Samra in good time for a shower before supper.