COSFORD & MANCHESTER

AT CHIPMUNK AT COSFORD MUSEUM

GRANDAD MIGHT HAVE WORKED ON THIS TIGER MOTH

RUBI FLANKED BY NOAMI & SCOTT

EXTINCTION REBELLION PROTESTING IN MANCHESTER

'DRUM MACHINE'

THE CROWD WERE INVITED TO JOIN IN

Saturday 31st August, and it rained heavily in the morning. We left our Capel Curig bunkhouse at around 10.30pm to make our way back to the RAF Museum at Cosford, arriving 2 hours later. We had visited the museum on the first day of our holiday, but it was so large and there were so many aircraft that more time was needed to see it all. We had just about covered it all by closing time at 5.00pm.

Next, we drove to nearby Roden, just east of Shrewsbury, where Hil and Steve had their permanent abode, a charming old cottage that had been tastefully renovated whilst retaining the charm of some of the original features. Hil cooked a lovely meal and we all chatted until late. It was a pleasure staying with them.

Next morning we said our farewells and navigated a route to Manchester to see Rubi's daughter Naomi and her boyfriend Scott. Arriving shortly after midday, we took the train into the city to enjoy dim sum at an excellent restaurant in Manchester's Chinatown. We had intended to visit the Science and Technology Museum afterwards, but time was short so we visited the markets and the shops instead. We could hear loud drumming as we approached the city centre and learned the Extinction Rebellion were holding an organised demonstration. The drumming was from a group called 'Drum Machine' and they gathered a significant audience, some of whom were invited to participate in the drumming. Like African drumming, the rhythm was compelling and many people were inspired to dance.

A cancelled train meant that we had a wait a while at Manchester Picadilly station before we could get back to Naomi and Scott's rented cottage. When we did get there, we ended up watching episodes of Gavin & Stacey on Netflix until we were tired. We had brought with us sleeping bags, blankets and pillows, so were able to enjoy a reasonably comfortable night on the lounge carpet.

Scott was away to work early on Monday morning and Naomi not much later. After packing our bags into the car we closed the door and commenced our long, but otherwise uneventful, car journey home. It had been a hectic couple of weeks and we were both looking forward to a quiet, relaxing evening and lie-in in the morning.

SUMMER IN SNOWDONIA

LEADING HF GUESTS THROUGH ENTRANCE TO NANNAU ESTATE

NATASHA AND HELEN SUMMIT CADER IDRIS

JELLYFISH ON BEACH NEAR HARLECH

HARLECH CENTRE

RUBI WITH SNOWDON IN BACKGROUND

OUR BUNKHOUSE AT BRYN TYRCH

COMFORTABLE INSIDE

HIMPSHIRE HIKERS MEMBER OUTSIDE CAFE SIABOD

RESTING ON CLIMB OF MOEL SIABOD

BY ADAM & EVE ON TRYFAN

ON THE CANTELEVER BY GLYDER FACH

The HF programme of walks continued with me leading a trek up to Rhobell Fawr on Wednesday, which Rubi joined. Thursday's weather was very wet and windy, and probably close to the limit of safety for taking guests on my allocated walk, which was to the summit of Cader Idris via the Minfordd path, and back down via the Pony track. Another leader was expected to continue further across the wind and rain-swept mountain, but opted to curtail his walk and join me for the quicker route down. Conditions were much improved at the lower altitude. Not far from our coach pick-up point, a couple of casually dressed ladies pushing children in push chairs enquired how long it would take them to get to the summit. We explained the realities to them. Some folk have no idea.

Rubi was undoubtedly pleased that she had opted for a lower level walk that day, but she made up for it the next day by by ascending Rhinog Fawr whilst I led a low level but picturesque walk from Llanbedr to Harlech.

Although the weather had been poor at times, we enjoyed our week and said farewell to the guests on Saturday morning with a degree of sadness.

Car loaded, we next headed for Capel Curig in northern Snowdonia, from where we would spend a further week leading walks, this time for members of the Hampshire Hikers meetup group. I had entitled the week SUMMER IN SNOWDONIA, and the improving weather certainly looked like it would justify the description for the eleven walkers who would be joining us.

We had booked a bunkhouse on Bryn Tyrch Farm in Capel Curig for the week, but before we got there we checked the parking situation for walks to Snowdon and Tryfan, two of our target summits for the week.

Actually getting into our bunkhouse turned out to be problematic as the farmer wasn't at home, but after some phone calls from Rubi, we ended up in room 5, which was probably the best room on the site. Whilst all the rooms were a bit basic, grubby and cobwebby, we did get a double bed, a sink, 13A sockets and electric lights. At £98 for the week we weren't complaining.

Richard, Lesley Ann, Vic, Dana, Oliya, Sean, Linda, Bob and Graham arrived on the same day, so we took them on a local walk and explained plans for the following day's walk, which would be to Moel Siabod.

Sunday's weather was glorious as we started our climb to the summit of Siabod. The heat of the sun was probably a little too much, since a couple of hours later Vic started to flag as we commenced a particulaly steep section of the walk. He had not brought sufficient water and was dehydrated. Concluding that it was better to continue to the top for the easy descent rather than turn back, Sean gallantly ran up the slope to refill Vic's water bottles from streams. By the time Vic got to the top he had largely recovered and the rest of the day went smoothly.

Supper was enjoyed in the Cafe Siabod close to our bunkhouse. Their excellently priced goulash with large chunks of bread was both tasty and abundant.

Tuesday's walk took us up to Tryfan and the Glyders. Lesley Ann looked after our rucksacks as the rest of us made our way to the summit of Tryfan. The scramble was easier than anticipated, and soon we were taking photographs by 'Adam and Eve', the two distinctive rocks on the top.

Many more photographs were taken when, a while later, we arrived at 'the cantilever' atop Glyder Fach. Posing on the, apparently, precariously balanced slab of rock looked extremely daring, but it was easy enough for everyone to have a go. Afterwards, we had a long and tough walk back to Capel Curig along the eastern ridge. We were out for 9 hours altogether, and had covered ten miles in that time.

Chris and Martin joined us in the evening in readiness for Tuesday's walk. In fact there were three walks available on that day. Richard and Lesley Ann offered a low level walk in the shadow of Crimpiau which was joined by Vic, Bob and Graham. Sean took Oliya, Dana, Rubi and Linda up to the summit of Snowdon from Pen y Pass. Finally, I took Chris and Martin to Snowdon summit via the Watkin path.

Everyone expressed satisfaction with their day as we met for supper at the Tyn y Coed hotel just along the road from Capel Curig.

Wednesday was a 'free' day for everyone. Rubi and I took to the road, initially towards Bangor, but then turning right along the coast road to Conwy. There, we spent the afternoon viewing Plas Mawr (a restored Tudor house) and Conwy Castle. We ate at the Stable Bar in Betws y  Coed on the way back to the bunkhouse.

Thursday and Friday's weather was drizzly compared to our first three days of walking. On Thursday we enjoyed a river walk from Capel Curig to Betws y Coed via Swallow Falls, returning along the other side of the river. Friday involved a very windy six mile circuit up to Llyn Cowlyd and back, joined by Vic, Bob and Rubi, everyone else having gone home by now.

Our SUMMER IN SNOWDONIA TRIP had been a success and, after a final meal with Vic in the Cafe Siabod, we readied ourselves to leave the bunkhouse in the morning.

COSFORD, BARMOUTH & DOLGELLAU

AERO ENGINES AT RAF COSFORD

NICE PAINT JOB ON
JAGUAR AT RAF COSFORD

LIGHTNING & JAVELIN (IN BACKGROUND) AT COSFORD MUSEUM

RUBI WITH FRIENDS STEVE & HIL

HF DOLSERAU HOUSE

OUR EXCELLENT SUITE IN DOLSERAU HOUSE

SCULPTURE OF FALCON SEEN ON WALK

VIEW FROM ARENIG FAWR

LUNCH ON ARENIG FAWR SUMMIT

Thursday 15th August and we were on our way to Snowdonia where I (Steve) would be walk-leading for HF Holidays from their house in Dolgellau, named Dolserau Hall. On the way, however, we visited the RAF Museum at Cosford, arriving at the around midday. As well as looking around the aircraft on display, Rubi had arranged for me to visit RAF Cosford air base itself where they train aircraft technicians using retired Jaguar and Tornado aircraft to practise on.

The museum closed at 5.00pm, although we could easily have spent longer there. Continuing our drive into Wales, we headed to Barmouth where we would stay with friends Hil and Steve in their static caravan for two nights before starting at HF Dolgellau. Having not seen them for two years, we had lots of catching up to do. High winds and heavy rain kept us indoors for most of the following day, but we enjoyed a round of Scrabble (won by Hil's Steve). In the evening we ate at 'The Captain's Table' restaurant in Barmouth.

Saturday morning we drove to HF Dolgellau in time for the usual 12.30pm pre-holiday meeting. The guests started to arrive mid-afternoon and the walk programme commenced the following day. The weather was dry and I took ten guests on a level walk around the Mawddach Estuary whilst Rubi took to the hills overlooking the estuary with another leader (also called Steve). Dinner at the house was of the usual high standard and third leader, Roger, organised a music quiz.

On Monday the weather was drizzly in the morning but improved as the day progressed. I led three guests, including Rubi, up Arenig Fawr where we enjoyed lunch and spectacular views out of the wind in the stone shelter at the top. Our evening dinner back at the house was an excellent 7-course taster menu comprising local dishes.

Tuesday was a rest day from HF leading. Hil and Steve visited us at Dolserau Hall and, after showing them around the house, we all took a walk to Dolgellau town where we had a picnic lunch.

We were back at the house by 4.00pm so that I could prepare for the following day's walks. We arranged to see Hil and Steve again before we headed home.

CHANIA CHILL OUT & HOME

RUBI'S TREAT FROM THE APARTMENT OWNERS

CHILLING OUT ON THE APARTMENT BALCONY

A RARE WHITE PEOCOCK IN THE MUNICIPAL GARDENS

A SUBMARINE IN THE VENETIAN HARBOUR

BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION

NEA CHORA BEACH

EASTERN END OF NEA CHORA BEACH

NARROW STREETS IN THE TOWN

OUR APARTMENTS FROM THE BUS STATION

APPROACHING GATWICK

After 5 tough walks in the White Mountains on 5 consecutive days, we were due a rest. Besides, it was Rubi's birthday. After enjoying our last breakfast at the Neos Omalos Hotel, we said goodbye to George and the Hotel staff and waited outside for the 9.00am bus to collect us take us back to Chania. The views out of the bus window as we drove down from the mountains were stunning.

By 10.30am we were back at our earlier lodgings at Alena Apartments. Not surprisingly, the room wasn't ready for us at that time, but we were able to leave our bags while we walked around the town. The sunshine was out and it was warm and sunny. We wandered through the Old Town, then down to the Venetian Harbour where we visited the Nautical Museum, which also included the Battle of Crete Museum. The latter described how German paratroopers invaded the island in 1941 and, in spite of fierce resistance, were able to occupy it until 1944.

I had mentioned to the staff at Alena Apartments that it was Rubi's birthday, so when we got back there we were delighted to see that they had left a bottle of wine and a bowl of fruit out for Rubi which, of course, we both shared.

In the evening I treated Rubi to a mixed seafood supper. The restaurant gave her such a large plateful that she was unable to eat it all. I had a small vegetarian platter.

We had a lazy start on Tuesday and took a walk to the Municipal Garden, to the west of our apartment, where we saw goats, peacocks and other birds. We continued on to Irinis & Filias Parks before proceeding to Koum Kapi Beach for a drink and to eat our picnic lunch. After, we walked along the harbour wall to the Venetian Lighthouse and back, and then explored the covered market.

On Wednesday we visited the outdoor 'flea' market near Georgiadis Park and then walked to Nea Chora Beach to eat. We returned along the waterfront to the Old Town to do some last minute shopping. We had pizza and pasta to eat that evening (and no raki).

Thursday 6^th June, and all too soon the holiday was over and it was time to pack our bags. We had enjoyed exploring Crete. The people were friendly and we would certainly consider coming again. Our flight left mid-afternoon and by early evening we were back in the UK driving home. D-Day celebrations would be going on in Portsmouth during the coming weekend.

SAMARIA GORGE & GIGILOS

SAMARIA GORGE

FRAGILE BRIDGE

THE GATES

KRI KRI AT SAMARIA VILLAGE

BEAST OF BURDON AT SAMARIA VILLAGE

SHALLOW CAVE IN SAMARIA GORGE

ROUTE TOWARDS GIGILOS

ROCK ARCH ON WAY TO GIGILOS

ME ON THE SUMMIT OF GIGILOS

LAST FEW STEPS DOWN

At 15km, the Samaria Gorge is the second longest gorge in Europe (after the Verdun Gorge in France). The name is derived from Santa Maria, whose church is located half way down the gorge in the abandoned village of Samaria. The gorge walk is perhaps the most famous in Crete and is, in part, why we came to Omalos, just a few km from where it starts.

George, the owner of the Neos Omalos Hotel, drove us the short distance to the Samaria National Park ticket office, where, for €5 each, we were permitted to enter the park and start our descent of the gorge.

For the first couple of hours this involved a long zig-zag path that took us down the side of the gorge to the stream bed. From there on we were constantly crossing from one side of the stream to the other on stepping stones. Sometime after midday we reached Samaria Village where we ate our lunch. It was hot so we drank plenty and refilled our bottles before continuing on our way.

The terrain was much flatter thereafter. Crude wooden bridges began to appear as an alternative to stepping stones when stream crossings were necessary. Eventually we reached 'The Gates', the narrowest section of the gorge where the 300m high gorge walls are just 3m apart.

We exited the National Park after 13km of walking. There was a bar immediately outside the park where we enjoyed refreshing drinks before continuing the last two km to the village of Agia Roumeli on the southern coast of Crete. We had booked into the Agia Roumeli Hotel, so after checking in, we changed into our swimsuits so that we could  bathe in the Libyan Sea. Although early in the season the water wasn't too cold.

We ate at the Hotel and then wandered around the village, picking up food for the following day from the local mini-markets.

The next day involved walking all the way back up the Samaria Gorge again. Since most people start from the top, as we did on the preceding day, we saw very few people on the way up until we reached the half-way point at Samaria Village. As before, we ate our picnic lunch here. Rubi teased a Kri Kri (a Cretan Goat) in an attempt to get a good photograph and was nearly rewarded with a head butting.

After then, the upward climb became more strenuous, with the final couple of km being extremely steep. We had climbed over 1,200m to get back to the start.

Unable to walk much further, Rubi called George, the Hotel owner, for a lift and within a short while we were enjoying a shower in our hotel room.

In the evening we were were joined by German couple Albert and Sandra and found plenty to chat about as we consumed a couple of glasses of Ouzo each.

On Sunday, our last full day in Omalos, the plan was to climb Gigolos, an intimidating looking mountain of hard grey rock, nearly 2,000m high. It was a tough climb on stoney paths with precipitous edges. It took us over 4 hours to get to the top, the last sections requiring hands as well as feet. It rained a little as we stopped for lunch by the summit, but fortunately this cleared by the time we needed to descend. The rocky paths and the scree made the descent slow and laborious, but happily George was able to pick us up again when we got back to the start.

On our last night in Omalos, we reflected on how varied our walks in the area had been. In the morning we would be catching the bus back to Chania for some well deserved rest.

CHANIA & OMALOS - CRETE

VENETIAN HARBOUR IN CHANIA

VENETIAN LIGHTHOUSE AT SUNSET

NEOS OMALOS HOTEL

ANCIENT CYPRESS TREE NEAR KOUKOULE

SUMMIT OF KOUKOULE

VIEWPOINT AT KALERGI REFUGE

SOME INDICATION OF A PATH TO KAIMENI SUMMIT

HARD WALKING - OMALOS PLATEAU IN BACKGROUND

KAIMENI KEFALA SUMMIT

BACK DOWN TO THE PLATEAU

Tuesday 28th May. Other than the fact that the EasyJet aircraft's air conditioning wasn't working, our flight from Gatwick to Chania Airport was uneventful. For €2.50 each, the coach from the Airport took us directly to Chania bus station, which happened to be just 50 yards from Alena Apartments, where we would stay for the night.

It was late afternoon, so we quickly settled in so that we could take a walk down to the Venetian Harbour to enjoy the views, look around the tourist shops, and find a restaurant. We settled on the Mixalis, which served us a mixed grill to share, preceded by a salad and followed by a chocolate sweet and Raki, the latter provided in a small bottle along with two shot glasses. We soon learned that this was the traditional way to end a meal in Greece.

We slept well that night, but needed to be up early to catch the 07:45 bus to Omalos in the White Mountains to the south of Chania. Not long after 9:00 we arrived at the Neos Omalos Hotel where we would stay. It was too early to book in, so we loaded what we needed for a day-walk into our rucksacks, left our suitcase, and headed up a mountain path which would take us to Kalergi Refuge.

This was a 4 hour walk which involved climbing difficult, rocky mountain terrain. Route-finding was assisted by the blue and red splashes painted onto the rocks.

The highest point of the walk was Koukoule at an altitude of 1631m. Shortly after we reached Kalergi Refuge, from where the views were spectacular. In particular, we could we could see down the Samaria Gorge which we would be walking along later in the week.

Climbing down from the Refuge was at least as difficult as climbing up although it was fascinating watching the Lammergeiers (Bearded Vultures) encircling us on our descent. Perhaps they were hoping that one or both of us would expire.

Finally, a 4km walk across the Omalos Plateau brought us back to the Neos Omalos Hotel. Once there we were able to enjoy a welcome shower and sample their cuisine.

We had a bit of a lie-in next morning, not getting down to breakfast until 9:00. We didn't leave the Hotel for a walk until gone 11:00. Although the day's walk was shorter, it was much tougher with rocks and trees to contend with on largely pathless terrain. Our route took us to the summit of Kaimeni Kefala at 1401m, where we ate our picnic lunch at nearly 3:00pm.

We returned to the Plateau by following a stream bed all the way down to the road, which we then followed back to the hotel. We were out for about 6 hours in total, but the day was most satisfying - for me because it involved tricky navigation and for Rubi because she was able to cope with such challenging terrain.

After supper at the hotel, we enjoyed a hot chocolate in our room using our newly acquired travel kettle. We needed to sleep well, for tomorrow we would be walking the length of Samaria Gorge.