Tuesday, 23 August 2016

FORT WILLIAM & BEN NEVIS

CALEDONIAN CANAL AT FORT AUGUSTUS

BY LOCH NESS

COMMANDO MEMORIAL AT SPEAN BRIDGE

GLEN NEVIS

ABOVE HALFWAY LOCH ON BEN NEVIS

BEN NEVIS SUMMIT

THE OTHER SIDE OF BEN NEVIS

BEN NEVIS SUMMITEER OR IS THERE SUMMAT 'ERE?

A WELCOME INN ON OUR RETURN

POSER

ANOTHER POSER

Monday 8th of August, and we awoke from our loch-side slumber to find that the wind and dropped and the rain had ceased, just as hoped.

A short drive took us back to Fort Augustus. This picturesque small town is located at the southern end of Loch Ness. A section of the Caledonian Canal, which links Loch Ness to Loch Lochy, also passes through here. We watched boats progressing slowly through the five locks, then wandered about for a while until it was time for lunch. Rubi made some delicious fried egg and onion sandwiches.

Annoyingly,my smartphone had started to misbehave so I hoped there might be a shop where it could be repaired in Fort William, the largest town in the area and our next destination. When we set off to get there, we found our progress impeded somewhat by three bridges over the Caledonian Canal which were open to allow boats through when we reached them, and a car accident that blocked one lane. We also stopped briefly at the Commando Memorial near Spean Bridge.

We eventually parked in Fort William and headed for the busy High Street. There was a mobile phone repair shop in the town, but alas, it was closed when we got there. We consoled ourselves with supper and a drink at the first Wetherspoon's we had seen for a while.

We did consider booking a room at the nearby Travelodge, but when they told us that the price was more than £130 per night we went off the idea. Scotland seems to be so popular at this time of year that they can clearly charge what they like. We found ourselves a quiet lay-by along Glen Nevis instead, with glorious views of the mountains.

We intended to rise at 7.00am, but somehow it ended up 9.00am instead. It was our intention to walk to the 1,344m summit of Ben Nevis, so we packed up quickly and drove to the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre to check the latest weather forecast. Confirming that it was satisfactory, we prepared a packed lunch, grabbed our walking poles and set off. Lots of other people were also climbing the mountain today.

The path to the top was obvious and well-trodden, but quite rocky. As we climbed we were treated to great views along Glen Nevis. Then we reached Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, also known as the 'Halfway Lochan', although it is actually a little less than that. After this, the climbing, though not technically difficult, became increasingly tiring and relentless.

As we neared the top we found ourselves in thickening fog, although we did get views when it cleared for brief moments. At last we could see the trig point marking the summit, where we took the mandatory photographs.

It was minus one degree Centigrade on the top and our fingers were hurting so it wasn't long before we were heading down again. Not until we had descended by about 500m did we consider it warm enough to stop and have our picnic lunch - rather late in the day as it was past 4.00pm by now.

The remainder of the descent was as long and relentless as the ascent, just a little less tiring. Around 6.00pm we reached the Ben Nevis Inn, just before the Visitor Centre, where we stopped for a drink.

Back at the car, we drove to our previous night's parking spot to find another camper already there in a German registered Volkswagen. There was still room for us too, so we parked up and made supper. Shortly afterwards, another car stopped alongside us, the driver got out and he politely told us that we had to move on as we were not allowed to camp in the Glen. We had obviously got away with it the previous evening. The other camper was also told to move on, but before she departed she suggested to us that we might want to consider parking near Old Inverlochy Castle, where she had done for several days running. We thanked her, took her advice, and had an undisturbed night.

In the morning we walked around Old Inverlochy Castle, which was quite small and a bit of a ruin, although there was clearly some restoration going on. Then we drove to the local Leisure Centre where, for a small fee, they let us use their showers. We left the car in their car park while we had a last look around the shops in Fort William and bought some food supplies. We found the mobile phone repair shop open this time, but all they offered to do was reset the phone to factory settings, which would delete the directory and all the photographs. This was a bit too drastic so I declined in the hope that I could find a better solution when I got home.

It was raining again, and this was expected to be the case for the rest of the day and tomorrow. It was time to continue our journey south so we drove on to Glencoe. We stopped at the Glencoe Visitor Centre where they had huge amounts of information about the local geology, history and wildlife. There was also much about the development of rock climbing techniques, and the personalities involved, and they had a film presentation about the 1692 massacre of the MacDonalds at Glencoe.

Back in the car, we drove further south on increasingly busy roads, passing by or through many places I had visited a decade ago when I walked the West Highland Way, such as Bridge of Orchy, Tyndrum, Crianlarich and Loch Lomond. Before long we crossed the Erskine Bridge and joined the fast moving traffic on the M8 and M74. It was a real change of pace from the easy-going motoring, often on single-lane roads, that we had enjoyed over the past two weeks.

It was starting to get dark so we needed to find somewhere to park for the night. We chose to turn off the motorway at Gretna Green and, after a little driving around, found a suitable place. This would be our last night in Scotland, but the holiday wasn't quite over yet.