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| ALBERT CLOCK |
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| TITANIC BELFAST |
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| SAMSON, OR IS IT GOLIATH? |
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| PROW OF HMS CAROLINE |
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| BOBBY SANDS MURAL OFF THE FALLS ROAD |
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| CUPAR ROAD AND THE PEACE WALL |
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| ULSTER VOLUNTEERS MURAL IN SHANKILL ROAD |
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| MEMORIAL TO BAYARDO PUB BOMBING |
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| KENILWORTH CASTLE |
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| KENILWORTH CASTLE GARDENS |
It
was about 8.00pm by the time we found somewhere to stay on Saturday night. We
had checked out possibilities in Killyleagh on Strangford Lough without
success. We then drove back a short distance to a Camping and Caravanning Club
site in Delamont Country Park that we had previously passed.
The
site managers, Gill and Paul, were initially a little uncertain about letting
us in as we were sleeping in a car and people might see us changing! When I
explained we had curtains, cooking facilities and a mattress they relented and
let us stay as 'backpackers', and charged us what it would have cost to pitch a
tent. We had time to eat supper before the light failed and then made use of
the excellent warm showers before turning in for the night.
We
were much refreshed when we continued on to Belfast in the morning and, being a
Sunday, we were able to park right in the city centre. Passing the Albert Memorial
on the way, we decided to take a stroll to the Titanic Quarter, named
after the ill-fated liner that was built here. We walked through the impressive
Titanic Belfast building, a visitor and information centre located by the
Titanic's slipway, saw the huge Harland and Wolff cranes named Samson and Goliath,
and finally reached HMS Caroline, the sole surviving warship to have fought at
the Battle of Jutland in 1916.
Most
of the remaining day was spent exploring the decks of HMS Caroline and learning
about its history and the Battle. The Captain's and other officer’s cabins were
furnished just as they would have been 100 years ago. It was so interesting
that we only just got round the cruiser before one of the staff announced they
were closing.
We
walked back to the city centre and ate in a Wetherspoon pub before looking for
somewhere to car-camp for the night. We ended up sleeping in the car park of
Cairnshill Methodist Church which was just around the corner from Cairnshill
Park & Ride, which was where we left the car the following morning.
Our
final day in Belfast involved catching the bus from the Park & Ride to City
Hall, and then walking to the west side of the city where much of what we heard
on the news during 'The Troubles' took place. The weather was wet and dreary
but we managed to dodge most of the showers.
Our
route took us initially up Grosvenor Road until we reached the infamous Falls
Road, which is synonymous with the Republican community in the city. There were
many political wall murals to be seen as we followed the Falls Road north east,
some honouring republican heroes, some commemorating victims of Unionist
attacks and some condemning Britain and the British Army.
A
short distance after the IRA Memorial Garden we turned left up Cupar Road,
passing through the now (hopefully) permanently open gates that separate the Republican
and Unionist communities. The boundary that separates the communities runs
along Cupar Road and is called the peace line. The high walls of the peace line
are almost entirely covered with yet more murals, but many of them had a much
more conciliatory message than those in the Falls Road.
We
eventually reached Shankill Road, as infamous in the news as the Falls Road,
and walked eastwards back towards the city centre. As before, there were many
wall murals to be seen, but this time with Unionist messages. We spent some
time at the extensive Memorial to the victims of the Bayardo Bar massacre.
Union Jacks and Northern Ireland flags were in abundance pretty well the whole
length of the road.
Whilst
what we saw in Derry very much emphasised the human rights issues that fuelled
the troubles, in Belfast the nationalistic differences were much more in evidence.
We did not see very much evidence of a clash of religious beliefs, but since
Unionists were generally Protestants and Republicans generally Catholics, it
could certainly look that way.
We
finally reached the city centre and, following a little shopping, caught the
Park & Ride back to Cairnshill.
Our
ferry from Belfast to Liverpool, the Stena Mersey, would be leaving at 10.00pm
so we didn't waste too much time in driving back into Belfast, this time to the
ferry port. I had booked a cabin for the overnight crossing so, once aboard, we
had a quick look around the passenger deck, ate some food in our cabin and went
straight to sleep.
All too
soon we were being rudely awakened by the loud speaker and asked to be ready to
go to our cars. We were making our way south out of Liverpool by 7.00am.
To
break up the five hour journey home we decided to visit Kenilworth Castle near
Coventry on our way. We arrived at the English Heritage site just after opening
time at 10.00am. There was much to find out about the history of the castle,
but most interesting was that the most recent sections were built by Robert
Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester, in order to entertain Queen Elizabeth I in the
hope of marrying her. Although this didn't happen, they remained lifelong
friends until his death.
It
was a gloriously sunny day, perfect for exploring a place which, in the main,
lacked a roof. Rubi dozed in the passenger seat as I drove the final miles home
after what had been a terrific holiday and learning experience.