Our digs for the night was the camping barn at Greencarts Farm, which we shared with Katerina from Switzerland, plus a group of four girls, all of whom were trekking Hadrian's Wall. Unlike us, though, they were all walking from west to east.
There was no evening meal available at Greencarts, but we did join forces with Katerina and Alex (another walker who would be sleeping in a caravan outside) and get some pizzas delivered from nearby Hexham. The farm did sell us some wine and beer to accompany our food.
Wednesday's walk involved only about 4 miles of the B6318 before we left it to climb Sewingshields Crags to reach Housesteads Roman fort, the most extensive and impressive structure on the wall. We viewed the displays in the English Heritage museum before enjoying our picnic lunch outside. There were some light showers whilst we ate, but not enough to dampen our spirits.
We continued our westward trek along the crest of the crags, enjoying the spectacular views to the north. We passed Crag Lough with the famous Sycamore Gap shortly after, and climbed up to the highest part of the Wall at Winshields Crags (345m). There were some steep ascents and descents on this section. When we reached Caw Gap we left the path to find Hadrian's Wall Caravan & Camp Site where bunkhouse accommodation for the night had been booked.
We were lucky enough to have the room to ourselves, and a small shop on-site enabled us to prepare a simple curry meal using the microwave oven available. The room was attached to the toilet and shower block, so wasn't the quietest place to be, but for a mere £15 each it sufficed. We used our own sleeping bags to avoid being charged for bedding. Above the entrance to the bunkhouse was a swift's nest with five baby chicks waiting their mother to feed them.
We continued along the ridge next morning in good weather, dipping down to beautiful Cawfields Quarry and, later, Walltown Quarry. After then, the route flattened out as we passed through Gilsland to reach our third English Heritage Roman fort at Birdoswald in time for a lunch break in the courtyard and a quick look around.
We still had seven miles to walk to reach our third bunkhouse, this time at Sandysike Farm just beyond Walton. We would be sharing with two German girls. There was no food available here so we ordered takeaway kebabs to be delivered from nearby Brampton.